Climbing Holds Part III: Taking it to the Edge
July 31, 2008
We’ve gone over jugs, pinches, slopers, and pockets. Hope you enjoyed the easy stuff, ’cause now it’s time for some hurt.
Today we’re talking about edges-the intimidators. These little guys were brutal for me when I learned, so we’ll spend a bit more time on them. You can recognize an edge hold by your first impression of it-if you see a hold and think “I can’t possibly hang on to that!”, you’re looking at an edge.
Edges are usually small, slightly positive edges that are just deep enough to fit the tips of fingers onto. They’re also called chips because many times they’ll look like little flakes of rock on the wall. There are two ways to approach these holds, one is to “hang” on it, which utilizes an open hand grip, and the other is to “crimp” it. Crimping places a lot more stress on your finger joints for the same reason that it’s an easier way to hold and edge-it relies on the finger bones and tendons as well as the muscles.
Officially, I’d like to recommend the hang method, just to keep my legion of faithful readers safe and sound…but I just love the crimp. When you get it down you’ll love it, too. So master it.
A key thing to keep in mind when crimping is to realize that your hands aren’t going to be supporting your weight-their jobs is to keep you from falling back from the wall. Your legs (again) are what hold you up. Realizing this is your first step to utilizing the crimp.
So when you crimp, you’re going to put your fingertips on the ledge and rest them in a way that you can put a portion of your weight on them, however briefly. I usually prefer to wrap my thumb over my index finger for a bit more reinforcement.
Don’t worry about your fingertips-they’ll hurt at first, but you’ll develop calluses. Once you do, you won’t feel a thing. Except awesome when you dominate that chip section at the gym.
I’m not going to lie to you-it’s going to be rough. You may even want to give up and stick to juggy routes, but keep at it! You’ll improve a little every time you try a chip route, and nothing beats the feeling of mastering a route you used to have trouble with.
Climbing Holds Part II: Slopers and Pockets
July 31, 2008
Alright, now that you’re familiar with jugs and pinches, it’s time to get a little more serious. This time we’re going to up the ante and talk about some more difficult holds: slopers and pinches. 
- Slopers are holds that slope downwards away from the wall, and can be a bear to hang on to. They’re the liars in the climbing hold community. You see them from below and rejoice, thinking that it’s a much needed jug, until you reach for it and realize that you’re in trouble. With these holds you mostly rely on the friction between your hand and the slope to keep you on the wall, so you’re mostly going to want to take the open-hand “hang” approach to them. The hang gives your skin a larger contact area with the hold, therefore increasing friction.
- Pockets are exactly what they sound like-indentations in the rock that range in size to accommodate anywhere from a single finger to a whole fist. Depending on their size, pockets can be great or terrible. Single digit pockets are appropriately named monos, and are notoriously difficult (try hanging from a finger sometime and see how fun that is). With a pocket that’s big enough for two fingers, use your middle and ring fingers. I know it seems more instinctual to use your middle and index, but the ring finger seems to hang on a bit better. If you’re faced with a mono, use your strongest finger, usually your middle or index finger. You’ll figure out which fingers are dominant after a few tries on the wall.
Now here’s the good news-the best way to become a better climber is to climb. The more time you spend on a specific type of hold, the more familiar with it your body will become, and the less you’ll think about it. Soon you’ll be bypassing your former problem areas and moving on to better climbs and even more difficult holds.
Climbing Hold Basics: Jugs and Pinches
July 31, 2008
Alright climbers, we’ve talked about etiquette and gear, it’s time to get to the fun stuff. That’s right, I’m talking holds: jugs, slopers, pockets, pinches, and edges. Dominate these and you’ll be king of the hill. We’ll start off on the friendliest holds: the jugs and pinches.
- Jugs slope inward towards the wall, and they provide a lot of space with a great grip for you to hang on to. They’re essentially a handle on the wall, and you’ll find that they make a great rest spot on the wall. Because they’re so easy to use, jugs are prevalent on beginner route, campus (arms only) routes or roof sections of climbing gyms. Don’t get cocky, though-just because a wall is juggy doesn’t mean it’ll be a walk in the park. One of my favorite climbing spots has a climbing wall that is spotted with jugs, but since it’s a 60-foot overhanging 5.11, it’s still a brutal climb.
- Pinches are holds that two faces and need to be pinched (go figure!) to hold on to. They generally require more strength to hang on to, as they have to be gripped by the thumb as well. Pinches vary in size and difficulty, and they focus on thumb strength more than any other hold, which gives your other fingers a break from doing all the work.
Jugs and pinches are great for starting out, as they put less stress on your hands. At the gym, look for routes that feature them for your first few attempts. Once you’ve developed your grip strength somewhat you can move on to more advanced holds with more confidence.
Tips For Taking Your Dog To the Beach
July 30, 2008
Enjoying the outdoors with your dog isn’t always about the backcountry. Once in a while you might find yourself heading to the beach with your mutt, and if so, then there are a few things you should keep in mind with regard to this unique location.
- First of all, many beaches don’t allow dogs at all. So keep your eyes peeled for warning signs—and heed them, because when you’re out with your dog, you’re an ambassador for all dog owners. Don’t ruin it for the rest of us, okay? Unsolicited etiquette lectures aside, if you are lucky enough to find a beach that allows dogs, there are a few things to think about as you enjoy your day in the sun..
- Lots of dogs love swimming, but if your dog hasn’t been in the water before, don’t assume that she’s one of them. Make sure to let your dog test shallow waters first, and always keep her within reach as she becomes more confident.
- Watch the saltwater intake when you’re at the ocean. My mom’s dog loves the beach. He runs and frolics and jumps the waves and then when he gets tired, he gulps down tons of saltwater before we can catch him. And then he promptly throws it back up. Not good. Try to limit your dog’s intake of salty water and have her drink fresh water as soon as possible. Saltwater is also hard on your pup’s skin and coat, so a cool rinse or bath is also a good idea after a day at the beach.
- Your dog can get sunburned, especially if she has short or fair hair. Believe it or not, there are sunscreens specifically for pets on the market. And, of course, remember to always keep your pet shaded whenever possible.
- Be extra vigilant when your dog is in the ocean. Strong waves or tides can come out of nowhere. Also, check for unusual conditions such as underwater hazards or a jellyfish swarm before letting her jump in the water.
As always, use common sense, keep your puppy shaded and well-watered and you will both have a great time at the shore!
Happy Hiking with Little Feet!
July 29, 2008
The key to having a great time when hiking with little feet is to plan, plan, plan! Any parent knows that a child, no matter what the age, can be both fun and challenging. Add the outdoor challenges of heat, sun, insects and toxic plants, and you can instantly have your hands full! With a little insight and a tad of planning, you can avoid the hassles and struggles that can lie ahead.
When you are choosing a place to hike, keep in mind the physical abilities of your child, how long is the hike, how steep are the climbs, will you change elevations too quickly? There are many situations that can be avoided by choosing a trail that is easy for a child to be on. Choose one that is less hilly and perhaps a short round trip. Try LocalHikes.com and Walking.about.com for ideas of what to look for or for your local area family hiking trails.
Be sure to dress your child in appropriate clothing, proper fitting shoes and good hiking socks. Comfort will be the key to happiness.
The most important items to remember to pack when bringing children on a hike are:
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Water
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Band-aids
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Healthy Snacks
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Sunscreen
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Bug repellent
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Both sunscreen with adequate UV protection and bug repellent can be found in nontoxic formulas that are safe for infants and toddlers alike.
It is important to prepare your child(ren) for a day out in the wild by reviewing basic but vital safety rules for hiking. In a moment’s passing, a toddler can wander, a baby can eat a toxin, or a teen can make a fatal mistake by challenging the law of gravity. As the parent, it is your job to communicate and enforce appropriate safety behaviors in the wilderness, both for the safety of your child and the preservation of the places you visit. The following are some simple rules when you are hiking with little feet:
1. Be sure to start your hike with an appropriately fed and hydrated family. This will prevent dehydration and altitude sickness
2. Dress young children in bright colors that don’t blend with the environment you are going to visit. Take into consideration that reds and oranges may not be a good idea in the fall.
3. Supply your children with emergency whistles or mirrors, perhaps even a cell phone. If the child is old enough, tell them if they even feel lost, to stay put and whistle. A child may use a mirror to reflect sunlight. When searchers are looking, this is a great tool. Many cell phones today have GPS signals that will pick up the location of the child if that child can call out on the phone, even if they cant identify where they are located.
4. Strongly emphasize to your child, if they feel lost, hug a tree. Stay put no matter what!
Following these simple family safety guidelines, starting your hike with safety measures and taking the time to plan a hike that is doable for all involved, will make all the hikers happy!
Climbing Shoe Review: La Sportiva’s Mythos
July 28, 2008
Like I said on A Note to Newbie Rock Climbers, good footwork is essential to any climber’s arsenal. You stand on your feet all day, so it makes sense that your feet will hold you up on the wall as well. That said, it’s very important to have a shoe that will stick to the wall-even when there aren’t any footholds.
Smearing is pressing the sole of your shoe against a flat, featureless part of the wall, relying on the friction from your shoe’s rubber and the wall to hold you up. It’s a very important technique for climbers to learn, and unlike most of the other tactics known to climbers, a large part of smearing depends on what gear you have.
That said, I’ve got to give some love to the Mythos. After a season of scrambling feet, it’s great to have a climbing shoe that is great for smearing. La Sportiva’s Mythos shoe is a sticky-soled, comfortable climbing shoe that’s useful on any surface.
The Mythos scores on two huge areas-grip and fit:
Grip
The Vibram XS grip is outstanding, as well-it’s like I’m a completely different climber. Footholds that were inconceivable are now child’s play, and I’m finding myself able to smear on most surfaces.
Fit
The upper consists of a stretchable leather that molds to your feet instead of squeezing it into the shoes’ shape, and the flat-toes fit makes it an extremely comfortable shoe. As if that weren’t enough, the laces wrap around the heel to minimize shoe slippage while you’re on the wall, making it ideal to wear on the wall or while you’re waiting for your next climb.
It’s a great all-around option for those of us who can’t afford shoes for every type of climb-comfortable enough not to scare off a beginner, but sticky enough to please the veteran.
VIsit La Sportiva for more info, or take my word for it and pick them up here.
Got SPF? Sun Protection for Higher Altitudes
July 25, 2008
We understand how important sunscreen is with our outdoor activities. While the best sun protection comes from clothing coverage, here are a few notable products I’ve found that raise the bar on sun protection for higher altitudes. (Note: prices and formulas are subject to change.)
REI Extreme Protection Sunblock – SPF 50, 8 oz., $12.00.
REI features this sunblock designed specifically for high altitude sports and snow glare. Containing titanium dioxide as its power ingredient, it also touts state-of-the-art polymers that allow this lotion to attach to the skin more effectively; that means you get a serious barrier of UVA/UVB protection. One perk: the hole at the end of the tube fits a small carabiner perfectly so you can attach it on your person or pack - effective and functional!
Aloe Gator Super Water Proof Total Sunblock Gel – SPF 40+, 4 oz., $10.95
This product provides UVA and UVB protection without the eye-stinging PABA, and surprisingly, it has staying power. The gel formula is a nice alternative to either lotion-based or spray-on protection, yet it may be a sticking point with some as it does feel a little greasy slathering it on large portions of your body. Yet for specific areas like ears, back of your neck and under your nose, it performs very well.
KINeSYS Fragrance-Free Spray-on Performance Sunscreen – SPF 30+, 4 oz., $18.00
KINeSYS Spray-On Sunscreen is a great choice for those of you who want to keep your hands free of lotions that could impede your ability to grip equipment. It dispenses an even mist of coverage leaving your skin feeling natural. The fragrance-free formula and ergonomic bottle makes this product a favorite with avid adventurers.
UV Natural Adult Sunscreen – SPF 30+, 5.29 oz, $37.00
UV Natural Adult Sunscreen offers a winning combination of UVA/UVB protection, moisturizing, and skin rejuvenation all in one tube. While the active ingredient is zinc oxide, it also contains a preservative-free vegan formula including green tea and grapeseed, a great choice for those who have fragrance sensitivities and allergies. Although it’s the most expensive of the four products highlighted, it is also highly concentrated; a little bit goes a long way.
3 Easy Upgrades for Faster, Safer Downhilling
July 24, 2008
Switch to a Skinny Saddle
On a steep descent, your center of gravity needs to be toward the back of your bike—otherwise, you’ll flip over your handlebars. This means getting your butt behind your seat. You can’t do that if a bulky saddle is in your way. Go narrow and you will also shed weight, which you’ll appreciate on the climbs. Before you buy, read reviews carefully and consider a gender-specific version that is designed to match the contours of your body. Two great saddles to try: the Terry Fly or the Women’s Specialized Ariel.
Get a Grip: Wear Full-Fingered Gloves
Sweaty fingers can mean slippery brake levers—the last thing you want on an intense downhill. Secure your grip by wearing full-fingered gloves, which will absorb sweat and help protect your hands if you fall. Concerned about the heat? Try Fox’s lightweight and breathable Incline Gloves, available in men’s and women’s versions for about $20 a pair.
Brake Smarter, Not Harder with ‘Shorty’ Brake Levers
Short-reach brake levers, in conjunction with disc brakes, can revolutionize your downhilling world. Small-handed people love “shorty” levers (also called S.R.L.s) because they literally shorten the “reach” between lever and handlebar, decreasing the time and effort it takes to stop. My hands aren’t small, but I love my Hayes S.R.L.’s because they give me the confidence to use one finger on each brake instead of two. This frees my middle fingers to grip my handlebars—which gives me a stronger hold on the bike and increases my confidence and control on steep downhills.
Meet the Cascade Gear Guides
July 23, 2008
Cascade Gear has a team of expert Guides that writes the blogs, articles and reviews that feature the best in today’s outdoor gear.
From what bivy sack to use on a mountain trek, to protecting your dog from snakebites, Cascade Gear’s writers use their experience and savvy to share the best gear they can find every day.
Get to know them on our Meet The Guides page.
Stay Alert: Keep Your Dog Safe From Snakebites
July 23, 2008
Last week I went to visit my mother at a ranch in the Sierras. She spends her summers there, and is happy to be mostly alone for two months, with nothing but sagebrush and her dogs for company. But I decided to intrude upon her solitude and went to see her for a few days.
One day we were walking down the dirt road, chatting, swatting at mosquitoes and watching the dogs jump in and out of the river. Her young golden retriever is goofy and bouncy (as is their wont), and at one point he bounded up to a bush, very excited about something. A chipmunk? A rock? Then he suddenly reared back, turned tail and ran to us. As we approached the bush, we realized there was a rattlesnake coiled there. It turned out to be a dead snake, but even dead, the snake looked menacing (evidently little Patrick felt the same way).
If you live in an area where there are dangerous snakes, stay alert when you’re out and about, and you should be prepared to care for your dog in the event he has a run-in with something poisonous. If your dog is bitten by a snake, apply a tourniquet above the bite, if possible, to help prevent the flow of blood from his infected extremity to his heart, and seek veterinary assistance immediately.
Snake bite kits are widely available, and might come in handy, but frankly, applying a suction device or administering another procedure to your dog might be easier said than done, especially if he is agitated by the painful bite. Keeping him calm and getting him to the vet as soon as possible is crucial.
Better yet, if a snake bite is a real likelihood in your region, plan ahead and protect your dog with an inoculation. Antivenins are available at your vet. There are also rattlesnake avoidance training classes for dogs. Using mild shock collars and de-fanged rattlesnakes as teaching aids, avoidance training teaches dogs to stay away from the scent and sight of rattlesnakes.
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