Climbing Hold Basics: Jugs and Pinches

Bill Brown July 31, 2008

Alright climbers, we’ve talked about etiquette and gear, it’s time to get to the fun stuff. That’s right, I’m talking holds: jugs, slopers, pockets, pinches, and edges. Dominate these and you’ll be king of the hill. We’ll start off on the friendliest holds: the jugs and pinches.

  • Jugs slope inward towards the wall, and they provide a lot of space with a great grip for you to hang on to. They’re essentially a handle on the wall, and you’ll find that they make a great rest spot on the wall. Because they’re so easy to use, jugs are prevalent on beginner route, campus (arms only) routes or roof sections of climbing gyms. Don’t get cocky, though-just because a wall is juggy doesn’t mean it’ll be a walk in the park. One of my favorite climbing spots has a climbing wall that is spotted with jugs, but since it’s a 60-foot overhanging 5.11, it’s still a brutal climb.
  • Pinches are holds that two faces and need to be pinched (go figure!) to hold on to. They generally require more strength to hang on to, as they have to be gripped by the thumb as well. Pinches vary in size and difficulty, and they focus on thumb strength more than any other hold, which gives your other fingers a break from doing all the work.

Jugs and pinches are great for starting out, as they put less stress on your hands. At the gym, look for routes that feature them for your first few attempts. Once you’ve developed your grip strength somewhat you can move on to more advanced holds with more confidence.


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