Getting An Ass Kicking and Loving It: A Rough Mountain Ride
July 19, 2008
Tribulations. Anyone who’s spent some time participating in outdoor sports is no stranger. In many ways, suffering is the currency by which we purchase our little commodities; it’s why we’re out there in the first place. On a recent mountain biking ride, I was reminded of just how large a role tribulations and suffering play in our sports, and how much they can lead way to great rewards.
I had set out to spend an afternoon riding one of my favorite local trail systems. I had no real destination or goal, just to enjoy a beautiful day upon my favorite two-wheeled vehicle.
Unfortunately, things were rocky for me from the very beginning. My allergies were raging, causing that slight congestion—not quite enough to hawk on the side of the trail, but just enough to cause a painful heaving wheeze on each stretch of uphill. And uphill was all I’d be riding—although the trail wasn’t particularly difficult it was relentless uphill climbing, which translated into a stop every couple of minutes to catch my breath. I had a strong inclination to turn around at the first short loop, which would have made my grand ride about a mile, being generous.
Instead, I pushed on, hoping to get a decent ride in. The more I rode, the better I felt and eventually the Claritin I had taken right before heading out seemed to kick in full blast. With the allergies out of the way, and plenty of day left, I was ready for a solid ride.
Then I was hit with another swift kick to the groin. I made a goal of climbing to the top of the mountain, something I’d never done before. As I made my way past previous turning points, the trail became drastically steeper and I kicked it into granny gear and sucked in that last breath and began the painful ascent. Less than a quarter of the way up, my chain became afflicted with chronic slippage and just wouldn’t stay right. As I lunged awkwardly forward and lost all momentum, I realized I’d be walking the rest of the uphill to the top.
When I finally trudged my way to the top I decided to do something that I really shouldn’t have. I kept riding. There was a trail up top that followed along the ridgeline, a trail I’d never even heard of, largely because it was constructed just last fall and wasn’t even on my older map. I couldn’t resist the urge to ride this mysterious new trail along the top of this peak, even though I was tired and running short on energy. Besides, Ridge Trail—sounded very flat and I assumed it just meandered along the mountaintop, providing different glimpses of the sweeping mountain views.
I didn’t realize how wrong I was until I bombed downhill, believing that I was winding my way back toward the trails I’d started on. Instead, the trail took a drastic turn in the opposite direction and appeared to traverse steadily into nowhereland. Time to turn around, I thought. So I did a quick 180 and began pedaling back up the hill I’d just finished down. Unfortunately, my gears had not miraculously repaired themselves and the slippage began again. It looked like it would be another long walk.
As it turned out, it was a long, brutally hot walk, as mountaintops offer very little shade from the relentless sun. At this point it was 4 or 5 hours since my last meal and I was virtually exhausted and running extremely low on fuel. I was also running extremely low on water, as my Camelback was feeling almost non-existent on my shoulders. This was proving to be a very bad idea.
Indeed it took me what seemed like 3 hours just to hike back up to the top. My breaks became longer and longer as I became more and more tired. What had seemed relatively flat on the way out was now unequivocally uphill. I stopped to rest in every shaded patch that I came across and every foot that I walked felt as though I was hiking a mile.
Then the inevitable happened. I ran out of water, in one last, slurping sip. This would not prove helpful. I was still a good mile from the top and every step was already painful.
I pushed on and began to feel dryness of mouth and the cramping of muscles as the sun beat down on my head. I wasn’t sure how close I was to dehydration, but it was an ever-present thought on my mind.
And the trail just kept going. At every turn, I expected to see the trailhead. Instead, I just saw more unrelenting lengths of trail, nearly all uphill. I had never been in this miserable shape before and began to really worry about getting out of there.
Eventually, I made my way to the top cramping muscles, dry mouth, exhausted body and malfunctioning chain all in tow. I took several moments to breathe in the sweet, cool breeze and stare out at the lush valleys and endless mountains in the distance. As I sat still catching my breath and letting my tense muscles relax, it hit me. As difficult as this ride had been and as many wrenches as had been thrown at me, I wouldn’t trade it for anything. This was what it was about. I don’t mountain bike because it’s easy, I do it because it is a challenge, a challenge with monumental rewards.
To be fair, it was nothing great that I had done, riders bike further, faster and easier everyday, quite possibly under much worse circumstances. I also don’t wish to glorify my own lack of preparedness in not packing enough food or water. However, on this day that it seemed nothing would go my way, I had persevered through my own tribulations and earned incredible views and a great memory, not to mention the killer winding downhill to come. I had also experienced a brilliant new piece of trail that I would otherwise have missed out on—tight singletrack blazing through wildflowers, traversing along steep drops and tight ridgeline. I won’t soon forget this trip.
Besides the immediate rewards this ass kicking brought with it some important lessons. Next time, I’ll be bringing some food and an extra water bottle. I also won’t be riding further than necessary on a hobbled bike.
In the end, a decisive kick in the ass is what we all crave, even if we don’t realize it. Outdoor sports, whichever one(s) you choose, are difficult and dangerous with ever-changing obstacles and unforeseen sets of challenges. However, the accomplishment of overcoming the random challenges that come our way and earning the sweet rewards of our game are what drive us to go out there. As counterintuitive as it may sound, I look forward to my next ass kicking.
New to Mountain Biking? Five Things I Wish Someone Had Told Me When I Started
July 10, 2008
I got a lot of advice when I started mountain biking: tips from fellow riders, sales pitches from bike shop employees, reviews and “how-to’s” from countless magazines, books, and videos. I forgot most of it, preferring to learn the hard way. But there are some tips that stick with me more than others—gems I still find useful after twelve years in the saddle.
1. Uncomfortable with a technical section? Get off and walk. I used to think that the point of mountain biking was to identify the rockiest, steepest, most dangerous descents and blast down them at warp speed. My riding companions had years more experience than I did, and I struggled to keep up with them on trails way beyond my skill level. I worried that by walking, I would annoy everyone who had to wait even longer for me to catch up. So I took stupid risks for the sake of… saving a few extra minutes. Every ride, I’d come home with a fresh purple welt or a bloody scrape—or worse. I wish I’d simply listened to my common sense. What takes longer? A two-minute walk, or the hour my companions will spend carting my injured body to the hospital? And why worry so much about them? It’s me who has to deal with the physical pain—not just the impact and risk of permanent damage, but potential weeks of recovery and expensive medical bills. My advice to you: it’s not worth it. If that rocky switchback scares the hell out of you, walk it. As you’re walking, make a mental note of the terrain. Find a smaller-scale version of it and practice that until you feel comfortable. Then crank it up a notch. This is a much smarter, more efficient, and safer way to learn. Riding will be more fun than painful, and that’s the reason you’re out there!
2. Loosen up. During a mountain bike clinic in Harrisonburg, Virginia, I heard some of the best advice I’ve ever received: relax. Stiff arms, a death grip on the handlebars, scrunched shoulders—these tense positions use up more energy than you realize. Instead, focus on engaging the muscles in your core: your abdominals, back, pelvis, and hips. Let your core, not your extremities, “guide” your effort. Keep your shoulders relaxed, your arms bent at the elbow, and your hands firm but loose on the brakes. You’ll save energy and improve efficiency, allowing you to enjoy a longer, more relaxed ride. Try it!
3. Learn some basic repair skills. If your bike breaks, it can be a long walk home. There’s not much you can do about a crack in your frame, but there are some common breakdowns that every rider should know how to handle:
- Flat tire. Always carry a hand pump, extra tube, tire levers, and patch kit with you on your rides. Learn to use them BEFORE you need them. This video does a great job of walking you through it. Tip: When you buy a new tube, you’ll see a little silver washer that screws down to the base of the valve stem. Save it! This tiny part keeps your valve secure when you are ready to attach your pump, making it much easier to insert air. You’ll especially appreciate it during inclement weather or if you’re in a hurry.
- Broken chain. New riders often break chains due to clumsy shifting—putting too much pressure on the chain at the wrong time. If it happens to you, you’ll need a chain tool to first remove any damaged links and then put your chain back together.
- Chain repair can be tedious and frustrating. One thing that will make your life easier is a Powerlink. Also called a “split link,” a Powerlink is a master link that makes it easy to split and rejoin a chain without any tools. They are included in chains made by SRAM, or you can buy them separately at your local bike shop for about $5. You’ll still need a chain tool to remove a broken link, but the Powerlink will make rejoining the chain easier, without shortening the overall chain length. I carry an extra one with my patch kit. Powerlinks are also great if you want to remove your chain to clean it.
- Sign up for a basic maintenance course. More and more bike shops are offering these on evenings and weekends. It’s also a great idea to buy a reference manual like Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance or Mountain Bike Maintenance: The Illustrated Manual. These books include easy, step-by-step instructions with tons of color photos. For a fantastic bike-repair web site, visit: www.ParkTool.com.
4. “Look where you want to go, and the bike will follow!” I was learning to ride a motorcycle–not a mountain bike–when I first heard this advice. My instructor shouted it into a megaphone as we rode in circles around an empty parking lot. The goal was to steer perfect figure-eights, but my loops were wobbly, jerky, and slow. “Stop looking at your front wheel—look ahead!” he shouted. I lifted my gaze from my handlebars to a spot 15 feet ahead on the pavement. Sure enough, my turns got smoother and faster. Wherever I turned my head, the bike followed. Lo and behold, it works for mountain biking! By focusing 10-15 feet on the trail, even in technical sections, I’m prepared for what’s coming. I choose cleaner lines. I don’t waste as much energy navigating every little rock and root because I know my bike can handle it—allowing me to save my concentration for the really technical parts. This involves trusting the bike, which takes some getting used to, but the result is a smoother, faster, more enjoyable ride. Try it, you’ll be amazed at how quickly you improve!
5. “Drink water BEFORE your ride, not just during and after,” Gary advised. Gary takes hydration very seriously. He leads bike tours in the Marina Alta Mountains of eastern Spain, one of the driest, most technical trail systems in Europe. Summer temperatures can reach close to 100 degrees Fahrenheit—and there is very little shade. I joined him last June for one of his “easier” rides: a 27-mile loop dotted with steep pitches, rocky switchbacks, and rolling, fast descents. “You’ve got to start hydrated out here, or else,” he said. As promised, the sun was relentless during our three-hour trip. Sweat poured out of every pore on the first steep climb. I drank two 16-oz. bottles of water and didn’t once get the urge to pee, a sign that my body needed to absorb more fluid than I could give it. Then came a slight pounding headache…and the ride ended. Suppose we’d continued another hour? Muscle cramps, fatigue, nausea, dizziness—and perhaps, a trip to the hospital. The experience put hydration in perspective, and even though I live in a milder climate, I make it a point to start drinking an hour or two before every ride in addition to during and after.
Adding Altitude To Your Bucket List
July 10, 2008
One morning a few months ago, I was sitting up in bed recovering from a difficult surgery I had just 10 days earlier. My energy was zapped, my optimism waning, and I hadn’t seen my own kitchen in almost as many days. Full recovery was going to take longer than I had anticipated. Not being able to move around much, I flipped on the TV and saw several promotions for the newly-released blockbuster hit, “The Bucket List”. The clips were inspiring! It got me to thinking about my own bucket list of goals and dreams that I wanted to accomplish yet in life.
I was contemplating my list that morning when my sister-friend Bec, a transplant Seattleite and kindred spirit in outdoor adventure, posed the idea of climbing Mount Rainier together. She knows that a worthy challenge is a great motivator for me. Indeed, a climb of mountainous proportion takes time to think about, and I certainly had plenty of that given my temporary circumstance. While I had enjoyed hiking on a number of mountain ranges in Colorado, Montana and Washington State, I hadn’t considered what it would take to pursue some serious altitude climbing. Before I could give Bec an answer, I had to determine for myself what it would require.
Are you thinking of adding altitude to your own bucket list? Like me, if you are setting your sights on a climb of mountainous proportion, you will first need to consider a few “Mountaineering 101” basics in making this decision:
- Know yourself. This includes an honest assessment of your physical conditioning, tolerance to varying weather conditions, how well you acclimate to increasing altitudes, and your mental capacity for adventure. Mountaineering requires both thorough and thoughtful preparation in each of these areas in order to increase your odds of summiting successfully and with enjoyment. The most common reasons for terminated climbs are altitude sickness, inadequate physical conditioning, and unfavorable weather. While you can’t do anything about the weather, the next best way to offset a premature ending to your expedition is to be well-prepared mentally and physically. You must understand your own capabilities and limitations, inside and out.
- Choose a reputable and well-experienced guide service. There is a very good reason for this; simply put, expert guides know the mountain and its pathways well. They log in hundreds of hours and dozens of climbs on a particular mountain in order to make your trek a safe and enjoyable one. Most guides are hired through commercial guide services which offer instructional mountaineering schools for the novice and advanced climber. The sessions are led by climbing experts who are passionate about safety and helping you reach your goals. You will find these services to be incredibly informative, fun, and well worth the investment.
- Assess what equipment you will need. Outfitters and mountaineering schools generally provide a comprehensive list of equipment needed for your particular expedition. Some climbs only require the basics of a good pair of hiking books, appropriate clothing, and maybe walking poles. Other climbs require substantial gear such as an alpine pack, mountaineering ax, harness, helmet, crampons and camping equipment. Most anything you would need is available for a reasonable rental fee; however, you may want to invest in your own boots and outdoor wear to ensure a personalized fit. There are a number of gear lists found on the Internet. AlpineAscents.com has an especially helpful listing of specific trekking gear needed for a number of mountain expeditions worldwide. Check it out: http://alpineascents.com/gear-lists.asp.
- Set reasonable expectations. Attempting any technical climb, even in favorable weather, does not guarantee that you’ll have success reaching the top. For example, expedition guides for Mount Rainier report that on average, only a little more than 50% of climbers actually reach the summit. Altitude sickness, inadequate physical conditioning, and weather conditions - ranging from extreme heat to whiteout blizzards - can hamper your attempt to reach the top. Guides know this full-well and have a healthy respect for the mountain while keeping your safety in mind. They will do all they can, within reason, to help you reach your climbing goal. Ultimately, your physical conditioning - and Mother Nature – determine if you’ll be allowed to summit the peak on that particular day. Focus on the enjoyment of the ascent and you will surely be rewarded for your efforts.
Whether or not you decide to add mountaineering to your own bucket list, I for one, have decided that it is a worthy opportunity to include on mine. The preparation and training in the months ahead will no doubt be difficult; yet for me, the simple journey in exploring an adventure of new heights is both exhilarating and highly satisfying. Happy list-making!
Climbing in a Gym
June 18, 2008
Climbing at a gym is a great way for beginners to get familiar with climbing in a safe, controlled environment. In a gym, new climbers can learn the basics, develop skills, and meet other climbers.
The routes are usually clearly marked, and most gyms cater to climbers of all skill levels. While many climbers prefer climbing outside, gyms can come in very handy when the weather is foul or when you don’t feel like making the trek to a remote climbing area.
In most climbing gyms there are some bouldering areas, but the predominant climbing style in a gym is top-roping, where the rope is tied to the climber, strung through an anchor at the top of the wall, and attached to a belayer (either a climbing buddy or a gym employee) at the other end.
Once you’re tied in, resist the urge to jump on it and climb away. Although it seems like you can just power your way to the top, climbing at it’s best is a thinking man’s sport. As you come to the wall, look it up and down. Try to map your course of action in your head. Note the areas that you think will be easier, the ones that will be more difficult, and any places that you can take a rest if you need to.
The visual overview might seem superfluous, but your vision is severely limited when your face is inches away form the wall, and it helps to have a basic idea of its layout fresh in your mind. My friends and I actually review climbing videos from our previous trips to harder areas so that we can plan out our future attempts.
When you get on the wall, here are a few things to remember:
1. Hug the wall. You want to keep your hips (aka center of gravity) close to the wall. If you stick your butt out away from the wall, it’ll put you off with it, and you’ll look like a rookie. No one wants that.
2. Be aware of your center of gravity. Try not to lean way out to one side or another. Your ideal position is to have your core directly over your legs. This helps at keeping fatigue at bay and it makes things a lot simpler when you want to move. There are exceptions, but in general, you’ll have a much easier time this way.
3. Use your legs! I’ve said this before, but I can’t stress it enough. Your arms are for balance and shifting your weight. Your legs hold your weight. Your feet will be what get you to the top, not your hands. When you plan your next move, make sure you know where your feet are going to end up. Trust me, you’ll thank me later.
These basic tips should have you looking like you know what you’re doing, and as you get more familiar with the movement and your strength increases with time, you’ll find yourself on more and more challenging areas. Soon you’ll feel ready for some real rock.
To find a climbing gym in your area, check out http://www.indoorclimbing.com
Prepare to get OFF the trail - Intro to Topographic Maps
May 30, 2008
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By: Ian Larsen
You’ve exhausted the supply of clearly marked trails in your little corner of the world and grown beyond the confines of traditional campground camping. Or perhaps you’ve already ventured into the wilderness in the company of more experienced backpackers, and now you’re ready to begin planning your own itineraries. Whatever the reason, once you make the decision to step off the well beaten path, you need to learn to read and use topographic maps.
So what is a topographic map, and how does it differ from other kinds of maps? The Random House Unabridged Dictionary defines topography, in part, as “the relief features or surface configuration of an area.” In essence, a topographic map is a detailed rendering of particular region, which provides the backpacker with everything you need to know in order to plan and navigate your intended journey, including elevations, terrain changes, potential water sources and physical structures, like homes, bridges and impassable fencing. If you encounter an emergency during your trip, a topographic map will help you determine the nearest roads and houses, as well as the safest routes out of the wilderness.
Do you really need one? If you plan to venture beyond well marked trails and roadside campgrounds, the answer is an emphatic “Yes!” Ask any seasoned park ranger, and he or she probably remembers at least one hapless hiker who got lost and eventually perished within any easy walk of a public road or building. And then there are the campers who must be rescued each year because they walked in into the wilderness without the tools or knowledge to find their way home again. A topographic map is as vital a piece of your camping gear as your backpack or utility knife. It will help you get to where you want to go and back again, and alert you to potential challenges and hazards along the way.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT MAP
When it comes to topographic maps, newer is definitely better. A map that is even five years old can potentially be misleading if new buildings have been constructed, water sources diverted, or roads extended. Natural events, like flood, fire and landslide activity, can alter the topography of an area dramatically. So while those 30-year-old maps you unearthed in your parents’ attic may have a satisfyingly vintage feeling about them, you’re better off displaying such pieces of history under glass than actually attempting to navigate with them. If you’re unsure how old your map is, the publication date generally appears at the bottom left hand corner. Current topographic maps can be obtained from a variety of sources, including the US Geographical Survey (www.usgs.gov/pubprod/maps.html) and Trails.com. You should also print out a copy of the USGS “topographic Map Symbols” guide, which can be downloaded at http://erg.usgs.gov/isb/pubs/pubslists/booklets.html. This guide provides a more detailed description of the lines and symbols used than you’ll find on a standard map’s legend.
topographic maps come in different scales (map distance versus actual distance), and it’s important that you choose a map appropriate to your needs. As a backpacker, you will most likely use a 7.5 minute map, which covers 7.5 minutes of longitude and 7.5 minutes of latitude. Estimating a minute to be approximately 1.2 miles (be aware that longitude minutes shrink as they move further away from the equator, while latitude minutes remain constant), a 7.5 minute map would cover approximately 81 square miles. While 7.5 minute maps present the highest level of detail, 15 minute maps are also available. Other scales of topographic maps are also sold, but they aren’t particularly useful for hiking and camping.
If your map doesn’t cover your entire route, you can identify the supplementary maps you’ll need by checking the corners of your primary map. Similar to the way a Thomas Guide works with roads, the adjacent map title is printed on each corner. Using several 7.5 minute maps will likely be more effective than choosing a single 15 minute map that covers the entire route on a less detailed scale.
READING YOUR MAP
A topographic map contains so much data that it can seem overwhelming at first. However, it’s actually fairly straightforward once you understand the map’s main components. When you first open your map, you should make note of the “magnetic north declination” graph located in the lower left hand corner. This graphs shows true north in relation to the map, as well as the deviation of magnetic north in both degrees and miles. For example, if the graph indicates that magnetic north is 13.5 degrees east of true north, you know that you need to compensate 13.5 degrees westward from your compass reading to find true north. If you plan to use the map’s UTM grid, rather than longitude and latitude, the graph also notes any deviation between the grid and true north.
What’s a UTM? Universal Transverse Mercator (Try saying that three times fast!) is an alternative to longitude and latitude. If you served in the military you may have come across it before. UTM divides the globe into a grid, with horizontal numbers and vertical letters to designate each zone on the grid. For example, New York City is found in UTM zone 18N. Within a given zone, locations are designated in terms of meters north and meters east (a meter is 3.281 feet). While you will most likely be using longitude and latitude, it’s a good idea to understand the basics of UTM so that you will have an alternative way to orient yourself if you lose your bearings.
Longitude degrees and minutes are identified in each corner of the map, and at regular intervals along the edge. UTM designations are the smaller, emboldened numbers found between the degree and minute measurements. A UTM notation 3902000 N refers to 3,902,000 meters north.
Your map’s scale can be found at the bottom center of the map. Since the distance between longitude lines changes as you move away from the equator, the scale will help you measure distances in your specific area. The scale is presented both numerically and graphically. For example, if your map shows the figure 1:250,000, then 1 inch on the map equals 250,000 inches of land, or roughly four miles (63,360 inches make up a mile). Immediately below the figure, a horizontal line visually depicts the same information.
Unless your map represents a very flat area, you will likely notice that the area is covered with brown wavy lines that represent natural features, like mountains and gorges. These are contour lines, and you can use them to help determine the steepness of your planned route. Each line traces a single level of elevation. The distance between two lines represents an elevation change according to the map’s particular scale. So an area in which the contour lines are spaced far apart will be relatively flat, while many close contour lines represent rapid changes in elevation. The contour interval is listed just below your map’s scale. If your contour interval is identified as 30 feet, you know that the space between two contour lines represents a 30-foot change in elevation, either up or down. Since contour lines can become quite tightly packed on mountains and other steep grades, specific elevations are noted along certain “index” contour lines, which are a darker shade of brown than regular lines. As an example, a 5000 index notation would indicate an elevation of 5,000 feet or meters above sea level, depending on your map’s contour interval scale.
The USGS “topographic Map Symbols” guide contains a listing of common features and their map designations. What you find on your map will depend on the area, but some of the more common identifiers include green shading for vegetation, blue for water, and red or gray for densely populated areas. There are symbols to designate natural features, like rivers and permanent snow fields, as well as man-made structures, like railroad tracks, fencing and mine shaft openings. Take some time to familiarize yourself with the features of the area you plan to explore, identifying water sources, obstacles and off-limit sections of land. Once you have a general sense of your intended surroundings, you’re ready to begin using the map to plan your trip.
PLOTTING THE ROUTE
Once you’ve identified your ultimate destination, your next step is to use the map to plan an accessible route that is within your physical capabilities. If you are using a USGS-USDA Forest Service Single-Edition Quadrangle map, established trail heads will be marked clearly with a red TH symbol. Otherwise, you’ll need to find an entry point that is accessible by public road and close to an available parking area. Chart a course that will keep you within range of usable water supplies and away from insurmountable obstacles. If this is your first expedition without a more experienced partner, you may want to stay reasonably close to previously marked trails and well-traveled roads, so that you can easily reach assistance if you run into trouble. As you become more adept at navigating, you can venture further and further into the wilderness.
Take seasonal changes into consideration as you read your map. A stream that is designated as intermittent can be reasonably counted on in March after the snow melt, but may be completely dried up in midsummer. Swamps and marches may be frozen over and traversable at certain times of year and hazardous or just plain miserable at others.
PREPARING FOR THE HIKE
With your route plotted, you should now use your map to pack and ready yourself. Once you are within a week or two of the trip, contact the relevant state or local forestry service to find out if there any terrain changes you need to be aware of, like trails that have been washed away since the most recent map was published. Remember, these are the people who like likely have to come in and rescue you if you run into trouble, so listen to their advice and revise your route to avoid any areas they feel are currently unsafe.
If you are planning an extended or particularly intense trip, you may want to organize a training regimen based on the terrain identified by your map. For example, if you will be traveling through marshland, jogging on the beach with a light pack can aid you in building up the appropriate leg muscles. If your route entails steep inclines, you may want to brush up on your climbing skills during a few smaller day trips. You should also use your map to determine the altitudes you will be traveling through and to determine whether thinning air will be a factor in your journey.
Even a relatively mild altitude of 6,000 feet above sea level can impact some people, so you don’t need to be climbing Mount McKinley for altitude to affect your progress. Higher altitudes mean less oxygen in the air, which can alter your endurance, circulation, and breathing. If you plan to travel higher than 8,000 feet above sea level, you should familiarize yourself with techniques for hiking in high altitudes and the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness. As a rule of thumb, your campsite should be no more than 1,500 feet higher than the previous night’s campsite in order to facilitate steady, safe acclimation. You should also expect to travel more slowly during the day, since it’s easy to overexert yourself in thinner air. Prior to the trip, integrate interval training into your fitness program, alternating controlled jogging with shorter intense sprints.
Use your map to help you pack appropriately for your journey. While you should research the general weather conditions in your area, your topographic map will help to further refine your supply list. For example, changes in altitude generally mean a corresponding rise or drop in temperature, and denuded areas signify greater exposure to elements, like wind and sun. If you expect to ford a stream or navigate marshy terrain, you’ll need appropriate footwear, and you might choose to bring a walking pole if you anticipate rocky surfaces. Additionally, based on the relative strenuousness of your trip, you may need to cap the weight of your pack, or make plans to establish a base camp where you can leave a majority of your heavier supplies. As a final safety measure, you should use your map to leave an explicit description of your intended route, including major trail markers, with a friend or relative, so that you can be more readily located should you become lost or stranded.
USING YOUR MAP EN ROUTE
Throughout your trip, you’ll use your topographic map, along with a compass, pencil, and clear 180 degree protractor-ruler in order to keep yourself on course. As soon as you reach your trail head, find a vantage point from which you can easily see two or three distant landmarks, like mountains or distinct rock formations. Then use triangulation to orient yourself and your map.
1. Adjust the declination (difference between magnetic north and true north) on your compass in accordance with the declination graph in the lower left hand corner of your map. This is generally done by turning a screw or key on your compass to change where the orienting arrow (the red area where you line up the compass needle to take a reading) sits in relation to due north. For example, if your map has a declination of 13.5 degrees west, then you’ll compensate by adjusting the orienting arrow to 13.5 degrees east of true north.
2. Orient your map on a flat surface so that it faces true north as indicated by your newly adjusted compass. Remember that true north is where the orienting arrow is, which, using the example in step one, will be 13.5 degrees away from the N on the outer ring.
3. Take a bearing of your first landmark by pointing your compass needle at the landmark, and then rotating the dial to line the needle up with your orientation arrow.
4. Using your protractor-ruler, draw a line on your map that runs through the landmark at the same bearing. As an example, if your bearing read 8 degrees west of true north, you would draw a line that was turned 8 degrees west from the map’s north-south meridians. Repeat this step with each of the other landmarks.
5. Check the point where the lines intersect. If you have triangulated your location correctly, this point should be your trail head. If your lines do not intersect or they intersect somewhere other than your trail head, then retake your bearings and try again.
Once you’ve gotten the hang of triangulation, you’re ready to go. Use your compass, protractor and map to triangulate your location at regular intervals, so you’ll know quickly if you have gotten off track. If you are following an established trail, be aware that hiking trails are generally the least accurate aspects of any map, owing to changes caused by weather and usage. You may want to triangulate your location more frequently on such a trail to ensure that you really are where you intended to be.
Throughout the trip, take some time to periodically orient yourself to roads and structures in your vicinity. You’ll be better placed to cope with an emergency, such as illness or injury, if you already have a general idea of what your nearest options are. Additionally, you should be particularly careful when passing close to restricted or dangerous areas. By triangulating your location more frequently, you can avoid any unfortunate mishaps that might come with straying too far off your route.
Mastering the use of a topographic map is akin to graduating from a learner’s permit to an unrestricted driver’s license. Rather than being bound to routes and campsites already well trampled by your peers, you’ll have the freedom to take full control of your journey and explore the full beauty of the wilderness around you. With a little patience and practice, you’ll be tramping through the woods and backcountry like a pro!
Create a FREE topographic map at http://www.cascadegear.com/Topo
About the Author:
Ian Larsen is an adventurer at heart and the owner of CascadeGear.com a leading outdoor community and backpacking & hiking gear review site.
Mountain Biking for the Old Folks
May 28, 2008
The bikes sat in the upstairs bedroom for a year. Cast-offs from our mountain-biking sons’ more conservative days, the old hard tails had been revamped and refitted and presented to my husband and me as a gift. “You’ll love mountain biking,” they said. “You’ll see deer and animals and the outdoors. But don’t try any trails unless you clear them with us first,” they warned. “Some are pretty advanced.”
With whitewater kayaking every weekend, we had ignored the bikes until the drought of that summer. After all, neither of us had ridden a bike in more than 30 years, not since each of us had taught children to ride. We’d look like fools, we surmised, wobbling and weaving for all to see. But, with no rain in the forecast and no water in the rivers, we, grandparents of five, hauled the bikes downstairs to give them a try.
It was as bad as we’d imagined. We are from the days of fendered bikes with wide, comfort seats, positioned so you could plant your feet firmly on the ground at any moment. You sat up straight, shoulders back, surveying the road ahead, and wheeled away, the wind in your face. But, these were mountain bikes with tiny, tiny seats oblivious to the inevitability of middle age spread. We sat perched high on these narrow seats, feet dangling, straining forward over thickened middles to reach the handlebars, only to stare at the ground between the wheels once the proper riding position was attained. These contraptions were not the vehicles of our childhood. These were torture devices designed by young, skinny Clif bar-eating children.
But the promise of riding through shade-dappled forests in the company of deer, squirrels, birds and maybe an occasional bear lured us to haul the bikes up to the local elementary school parking lot on a Sunday afternoon. The first try was terrifying, as we wobbled and wove around the secluded lot. Images of big black bears perched atop tiny tricycles in the circus’ main ring kept flickering through my mind’s eye. Surprisingly, it got easier with each covert visit to the deserted school parking lot. Then . . . we gathered our courage and rode across the uneven grass lawn! Now, we were mountain biking!
We kept practicing and the kids kept encouraging us with suggestions and admonishments. Through numerous adjustments, equipment substitutions and lots of help from our sons (including some déjà` vu with their running along side us shouting instructions), we were finally comfortable enough to give real trails a try.
A local park offers a beginner’s mountain bike trail, so off we went in jeans and hats, shoestrings tied around our pants leg to protect them from the chain. After all, how hard could this be? The whole park is barely above the level of the lake it surrounds. There would be little up and down. This should be a piece of cake after mastering the school parking lot. We were wrong.
Choose an Awesome Backpacking Stove
May 12, 2008
In some parts of the US, it’s possible to go backpacking without ever using a backpacking stove. As long as you have a steel pot that you don’t mind getting blackened on the bottom, it’s easy to cook over coals or an open fire. However, sitting in the glow of a campfire at the end of the day during a backpacking trip is becoming an increasingly uncommon experience. Due to the danger of forest fires, many national parks and wilderness areas prohibit fires altogether. Without a campfire, a stove becomes a necessity. Fortunately, there are many different types of backpacking stoves available today. Unfortunately, the sheer variety of stoves available can be confusing and make it difficult to select the appropriate model for your needs. This article will help cut through the confusion by describing the different models available and the pros and cons of each.
When choosing a backpacking stove, it’s important to consider how you will you use it. For example, will you be cooking elaborate meals, or cooking for large groups? Or, does your cooking technique consist of nothing more than boiling water? How cold does it get during the winter where you will be using the stove? How much money are you willing to spend? Each type of stove is better suited to some purposes than to others.
There are several different kinds of stoves available: Canister stoves, liquid fuel stoves, alcohol stoves, and wood stoves. Canister stoves use butane, isobutene or propane as fuel. They are basically fuel canisters with a burner on top. Canister stoves are good because they are easy to use, easy to light, and boil water quickly. Also, they don’t produce harmful fumes when they burn, and they are almost leak-proof. The downside of canister stoves is that the canister is not refillable. You have to buy a new fuel canister, and on a long distance hike it may be difficult to find a store that has a refill when you need one. Canisters are also slightly bulky, so carrying extras is an unappealing option on a long trip. Also, canister stoves experience poor performance in below-freezing weather-which is exactly when you need a reliable stove the most! These are best for people that like to cook elaborate meals, want a stove that’s extremely easy to use, and don’t plan to hike in extremely cold weather or to attempt any long distance thru-hikes.
Liquid fuel stoves are another alternative. They usually have refillable canisters, and can burn white gas, kerosene, even gasoline. Many liquid fuel stoves can burn more than one kind of fuel. With a liquid fuel stove, the fuel canister is attached to the burner by a hose. They are more complex to operate than a canister stove-instead of simply flicking a switch, you must use a pump to create enough pressure for the fuel to start moving through the hose. Also, although these stoves do function well in cold weather, they must be primed first to heat the burner and the gas line. Multi-fuel stoves are better than canister stoves for people that intend to do a long-distance hike, and for people who plan to backpack internationally. The cons of a liquid fuel stove include more time spent operating and maintaining the stove and the possibility of fuel leaking or spilling in your pack.
Alcohol stoves are stoves that use some type of alcohol for fuel. They are often used by thru-hikers because they are extremely light-weight and can burn almost any type of alcohol. Anything from rubbing alcohol to methyl alcohol to moonshine can be used to run an alcohol stove. Potential fuels can be found at truck stops, gas stations, grocery stores, hardware stores and liquor stores. Alcohol is great for the eco-conscious because it burns clean and doesn’t use up fossil fuel resources. The downside of using alcohol as fuel is that it does not create as much heat as petroleum-based fuels do. It takes longer to boil water, and on many alcohol stoves there is no way to control the heat or turn the stove down to a simmer. Also, alcohol is heavier than petroleum-based fuels are, although the stoves themselves are much lighter. If like to make your own gear, it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to make your own alcohol stove. Many different designs are available on line. Alcohol stoves work in cold weather, but not nearly as well as other types of stoves, and they must be primed first. These stoves are best for ultra light hikers, people who like building things and don’t have a lot of money to spend on a stove, thru-hikers concerned about being able to resupply in a small town, and people who are concerned with using only renewable resources when they hike.
Wood stoves are basically small firepans. Some of them come equipped with a fan to feed the fire, others use holes for ventilation. They are usually heavier than other types of stoves, but you don’t have to carry any fuel in your pack. Woodstoves are great for hikers who want to follow Leave No Trace principles yet miss the smoky smell and crackling flames of a real campfire. Wood stoves can be shipped or carried on a plane in checked baggage-an important advantage over stoves that use petroleum-based fuels, which are not allowed. Also, this is the only type of stove that you can use to make S’mores! A final advantage is that this stove works great even in freezing weather. Drawbacks include not being able to use the stove in places where wood is scarce, less control of heat than with a canister stove or a liquid fuel stove, and they may not be acceptable in places where fires are banned. Wood stoves can be purchased online, or you can make one yourself. To reduce bulk, look for a design that is either collapsible or fits in with your cooking pot.
As you can see, the type of backpacking stove that you will choose depends on several factors: the type of fuel you want to use, the types of trips you intend to take, and the type of food that you want to cook. Once you know what type of stove you want, make sure to do some research on the different brands and designs available. All backpacking stoves should have the following characteristics: lightweight, easy to pack, and as fuel-efficient as possible. When you have a model in mind, try to read some reviews and consumer reports before you actually make a purchase. This will ensure that you get the best value for your money and the best stove for your needs.
Preparing Your Feet for the Long Trail
May 8, 2008
By John Vonhof
Put together a group of people planning for the long trail and ask them about preparation and you will likely get the stock answers: packs, sleeping gear, food, clothes, and footwear. Not too many will answer “Feet.”
Without proper preparation, you will likely spend time on the side of the trail, trying to fix your feet or modify your footwear in order to continue. Whether your long trail is several hundred miles, or several thousand, preparing your feet is essential. With summer hiking almost here, let’s look at ways we can prepare our feet.
Time on Your Feet
It is important to spend time on your feet—in the shoes and socks you will wear on your hike. You can get by with minimal feet time for a short trail, but the long trails require a strategy. Put in enough hours to help your feet adapt to the stresses to which they will be subjected. If you train by doing six-hour hikes, you will be really good at doing a six-hour hike. Learn from successful ultrarunners who know the importance of at least one long training session per week and add a long session to your week’s routine. As you get closer to your start date, make the sessions longer and more closely resemble what you will encounter on the trail.
The weight of your pack and the change it means to your gait will have a stressing affect on your feet. Just as important is learning to do back-to-back training days. Teaching your feet how to adapt to long sessions, on consecutive days, will further your odds of success.
Strengthen Your Feet and Ankles
Long distance hikers need strong ankles, feet and toes. Maneuvering over bad trails and roads, and going cross-country, with a loaded pack, is easier when your feet are used to such stresses. A turned ankle will ruin your day and possibly your trip.
One key to strong feet and ankles is conditioning. The body needs power and strength. Legs are strengthened for climbing hills and backs and shoulders for the stress of wearing a pack. But conditioning means more than getting your body in condition. It also means getting your feet into the best shape possible for continued hiking.
Strengthen your feet and ankles with several exercises:
- Stand on one foot on a pillow or similar soft and unstable cushion and try to maintain your balance, first with one foot and then the other. As your ability to balance increases, move into short controlled up and down knee bends.
- Balance with one foot flat on the ground and the other leg bent back at the knee, as if you were in the normal support phase of a running stride. Start at 30 seconds at a time and practice until you can hold your balance for several minutes. When you have mastered this step, close your eyes and do the same thing. Repeatedly losing your balance and then recovering gradually strengthens the ankles even more. Doing this exercise with your eyes closed retrains you to quickly react to changes as your nerve endings detect a twist or turn when the foot hits the ground.
- Stand on one leg and slowly rise all the way up onto your toes and then slowly lower your heel to a flat foot. Balance yourself as necessary. Start with 25 repetitions and work up to 50 daily.
Healthy Feet Are Flexible
Healthy feet should be flexible. You can increase flexibility with simple stretching exercises. They include walking barefoot, using bare feet to pick up one marble at a time, scrunching a towel with bare toes, and writing the alphabet with your toes.
Keep Your Toes Happy
Toenails that are too long can rub against the front of your shoes and catch on your socks, which can lead to a black toenail, wear holes in your socks, and cut into other toes. Toenails should be trimmed regularly, straight across the nail—never rounded at the corners. Leaving a bit of nail on the outside corner of the big toe will help in preventing an ingrown toenail. After trimming toenails, use a nail file to smooth the top of the nail down toward the front of the toe and remove any rough edges.
Skin Care
Use a moisturizer, like Skin MD Natural, on your skin to avoid hardened skin and callus buildup. Pay special attention to the heels, the balls of the feet, and the bottom of the toes—especially the small baby toes.
Understand your Calluses
Calluses are controversial. A callus is thickened skin caused by recurring pressure and friction—usually a sign of ill-fitting footwear. Many people feel calluses help protect their feet from blistering. Others have blistered underneath calluses and know that these deep blisters are almost impossible to drain and treat. My suggestion is to work at reducing your calluses with creams and file them as smooth as possible.
Think Comfort
In order to cover many miles, day after day, your footwear needs to fit well. That means wiggle room in the toe box, a heel that grips, supportive and cushioned insoles, and shoes or boots are comfortable. Do not skimp on socks. You should use only moisture wicking socks that have a flat toe seam. Toss them when they become threadbare on the bottom.
Work Our the Kinks
Work out the kinks before you hit the trail. Find the best shoes and socks for your feet. Learn how to trim your toenails and reduce calluses. Select the proper insoles that provide support to relieve any pre-existing foot problems. Strengthen your feet and ankles. Know how to patch blisters and what should be in your foot care kit.
Feet that are conditioned and cared for will reward you with many good miles. We can all remember a hike where we were unprepared and our feet gave us problems. With a little effort, we give ourselves a better chance at success on the long trails.
By John Vonhof - Fixing Your Feet: Prevention and Treatments for Athletes; 4th Edition, 2006, Wilderness Press. Subscribe to the free Fixing Your Feet Ezine and Happy Feet blog at www.fixingyourfeet.com.
Adventuring outside of State Parks - Know the difference!
May 6, 2008
State parks provide a safe and fun place for many individuals and families to camp, but they lack the adventure of the backcountry. Taking the leap to camp beyond the boundaries of your state park in park backcountry or on forest service lands should not be taken lightly. The unique challenges of backcountry camping can provide a deeper connection to nature and a personal adventure, but staying safe, staying alive, and protecting the environment require greater knowledge in the backcountry.
Trip Planning Maps, Permits, and the Little Details.
Planning a trip to your local park can be as easy as following a road map and picking up a map at the park office. In the backcountry, a good map is essential, and sometimes multiple maps are needed.
The maps that you will need are dependant on the type of trip you are taking. For example, there are backcountry regions of several national parks where trails are well marked and well traveled. The parks publish maps and trail descriptions online that are sufficient for short weekend trips during peak season. However, the same trail may not be easily navigated in the winter. USGS topographic maps show the lay of the land and water locations. They’re sold at outfitter shops and also online (http://topomaps.usgs.gov/).
Popular backcountry trips, like Appalachian Trail hikes, often have guidebooks that describe each leg of a trail in detail and have specialized maps. Check your local bookstore or search online for a good guide. Also, search the Internet, because many people post descriptions of their trips, which can help you decide if a trip is for you, and can guide you while on the trail.
When camping in a state park, the first step is to register at the park office, and in the backcountry, there is a similar protocol. National parks require hikers to purchase inexpensive backcountry permits. Some wilderness areas, such as the Adirondack Park Wilderness, have additional registries located at certain trailheads. It’s important to register properly before beginning a backcountry trip so that you can be found in an emergency.
State parks list rules on park pamphlets and on signs. While “leave no trace” is always rule number one for the backcountry, there can be other regulations for a specific area. These rules can usually be found online, and might include mandatory use of bear canisters, or may ban pets on the trail.
Safety It’s in your hands
You can count on the state park ranger to be prepared for emergencies and to keep campers safe, but backcountry rangers may have hundreds of miles to cover. You need to be prepared for any crisis. Consider getting advanced first aid training in a Wilderness First Aid (WFA) course before heading out into the woods.
Wilderness areas are, well, wild, and they have a range of animal life. While most animals avoid humans, it’s important to know what potential problems might be, so that you can plan appropriately.
Additionally, always stay on the trail. Walking off trail damages delicate wild vegetation, and leaving the trail increases your chance of getting lost.
Food, Water, and More
The state park is a great place to camp with an ice-filled cooler, but in the backcountry, things are more difficult. A water filter and purification tablets need to be carried into the backcountry. Always pump water from the clearest source possible to avoid clogging the filter. Purification tablets are needed just in case the filter breaks. It is also important to carry enough water to make it to the next spring or stream.
Since you will be carrying your garbage for the entire trip, minimize food packaging whenever possible. While most cooking is done on a camp stove, some areas allow fire building. Keep fires small, and only collect downed wood that can be broken by hand. Use established fire rings, if available.
The showers and toilets of the state campground may seem like pure luxury after weeks in the backcountry. Pack-in-pack-out applies to all things, including toilet paper and other hygiene items. Delicate alpine regions require packing out human waste. Instructions for making your own “poop tube” can be found on the internet, or you can purchase a commercial product for this purpose, like the Phillips Environmental Products Waste Bag Kit, which turns waste into an odorless gel.
Have fun, and remember: proper preparation can make your first backcountry trip a great adventure, leaps and bounds above your favorite state park camping trip.
By Ian Larsen: To reprint or redistribute this article you must get written permission from by emailing gear @ cascadegear.com - Copyright 2008 - CascadeGear.com
Finding & Buying the Right Sleeping Bag
May 3, 2008
A long day on the trail should be rewarded by a cosy warm sleeping bag to crawl into once the fire goes out and stargazing is done. A good sleeping bag can make a tent seem as luxurious as a four-star hotel, but the wrong sleeping bag makes for a restless night - and a harder hike the next day.
A sleeping bag’s temperature rating is a guide, not a promise, so don’t be surprised if you’re shivering in a bag rated 30F/-1C when it’s 35F/ 2C outside. Good sleep is warm sleep, so decide what the lowest temperature you’re likely to be out in is and then err on the side of caution. Women tend to sleep ‘colder’ than men, an increase in altitude corresponds with a drop in temperature, and wet weather feels colder than it really is.
A sleeping bag’s shape also impacts how warm you’ll sleep. Mummy bags are classics for a reason: the tapered design featuring a narrow foot box and wider shoulders will maximise warmth while minimising weight. A good mummy bag will include a neck yolk and a hood, since 30-50% of heat escapes from your head.
A semi-rectangular or barrel bag is good alternative if a mummy bag feels too confining because they offer a little more room for the feet without adding unnecessary bulk like rectangular bags do. Semi-rectangular or barrel bags rarely come with hoods.
Choosing between a synthetic bag and a down bag comes down to how much you want to carry, what sort of weather you’re hiking in, and what your values are.
Synthetic sleeping bags have come along way since they were first introduced. Synthetic insulation is constructed from slightly melted plastic fibres or plastic fibres sprayed with a binding resin. The fibres are hollow to reduce weight and to increase the amount of hot air the batting can trap, and are a mix of lengthy strands and ’staples’ that are less than four inches.
Synthetic sleeping bags used to be too bulky to take on multi-day treks, but the new generation of synthetics can better mimic down’s advantages and already exceed down in wet weather performance. Synthetic fibres dry quickly, don’t hold in odours, are non-allergenic, and provide a vegan option for hikers who aren’t keen on sleeping on waterfowl. The Marmot Pounder 40F features Primaloft and is only 1lb 5oz (595g), for example, and is a good choice for travelling light and fast with a synthetic.
For the ecologically minded, the Marmot EcoPro is insulated with a synthetic made from recycled pop bottles, has a minimum 30F/-1C rating, and weights 2lbs 1oz (936g).
But no matter how far synthetic bags have advanced, nothing beats a down sleeping bag for
warmth, compressibility, and wicking. Down is made of the tiny, soft, curled feathers from the chests of ducks and geese raised for meat, and its hollow shafts and the spaces between fibres make it the best existing insulating fill. Quality is determined by it’s loft (fluffiness), which is measured by the number of cubic inches an ounce of down can fill.
Down is compactible and light - the Western Mountaineering Ultralight Sleeping Bag, for example, is 850 fill power down with 5.5 inches (14cm) of loft and weighs a mere 28oz to 31.6oz (795g - 895g) depending on length.
A down sleeping bag is an investment, since down can cost twice as much as synthetic sleeping bags. Down bags last two to three times longer, though, and natural fibres in lieu of plastics mean that down is easier on the environment. Down also moulds itself around a sleeping body, which means a warmer night with fewer drafts - something even PrimaLoft can’t fully reproduce.
The downside to down is that it doesn’t dry nearly as quickly as synthetic insulation, and therefore isn’t a good choice for long trips in consistently wet weather. A down bag won’t air dry next to a fire, and it’ll be heavy if it gets damp. If night-time perspiration is an issue, bring a silk sleeping bag liner to wick the sweat away from your body and to keep it from being absorbed into your bag; silk is light to carry and easy to air dry.
A sleeping bag’s outer liner is usually either rip-stop nylon or something more weather resistant, but a little heavier. Nylon is tough, moderately weatherproof, and highly breathable, and a good all-around choice. Wet conditions might call for more waterproofing, so DryLoft and competition, such as Mountain Hardware’s Conduit, are useful, if more expensive.
Fit needs to be considered once a synthetic or down sleeping bag has been chosen. Backpackers over six feet will want a Long sleeping bag, while those under six feet will fit a Regular length. Lefties tend to prefer right zippers, and vice versa.
Most brands, such as Marmot, Mountain Hardware, and REI will carry sleeping bags cut specifically for women. A bag cut for a woman will be narrower through the shoulders, wider through the hips and footbox, and will have a roomier chest. A sleeping bag that contours the body is less likely to leak heat in the middle of the night.
Hikes in cold weather demand an overbag to add warmth and move the dew point further from the body. In warm weather, moisture passes through a sleeping bag’s insulation and evaporates, but when its cold, perspiration condenses closer to the body. The dewpoint can be so close that its actually inside a sleeping bag’s insulation. An overbag provides enough warmth for moisture to pass through the insulation before condensing, therefore keeping the bag dry.
Big Agnes manufactures a range of overbags that have slots for sleeping pads, eliminating the nocturnal ’seek & roll’ for hikers who can’t stay still. Big Agnes Cross Mountain (down) and Buffalo Park (synthetic) both add 40F to a sleeping bag’s rating, will mate with any sleeping bag of the same zipper length, and doubles as a light summer sleeping bag.
A good night’s sleep is the difference between an incredible trip and a miserable slog, so the right sleeping bag is as essential as a light stove and sturdy boots. Take the time to choose the best for you, and sleep secure in the knowledge that you’ll be fresh and energised come dawn.
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