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A few dollars (call 800-821-7697 for updated pricing) will get you a crabbing basket with a big old dead fish secured to the bottom for bait, and a rope and bobber tied to the top. Crabbers under 14 years old do not need a license, and the adults in our crown were happy to step back and let them take charge! With a mighty heave off the dock, and a few minutes wait, they’d pull up a basket teeming with dungeness crabs.

Along with the crab basket, the rental includes a bucket to hold your catch, and the crab measuring stick. Only males can be kept, and must be at least 5 3/4 inches across the back. Males are easily identified by the narrow design on the underside - the only tricky part is flipping the crabs over without getting pinched!

Our day at the crabbing dock included a revelation for the kids: the ability of polarized lenses to cut through surface glare. With polarized glasses on, they could view the underwater action, watching crabs scuttle around and work their way into the basket. On a cloudy day, which is most days at the coast, pink or yellow lenses make colors pop a little more; on sunny days a gray or blue lens is easy on the eyes. In either case, this was a day that convinced the kids that sunglasses do more than protect their eyes from UV rays (which I apparently am always telling them, to no avail.)

As of August 15th, the crab season closes on the ocean, but along the coast it continues year round. If you go, shoot for calm weather: a little rain is okay, but a heavy storm will chase the crabs deeper off the coast. We ended up catching a whole lot of females and a good number of smaller males, but no keepers, unfortunately. Our bucket went home empty, but it sure

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1. Uncomfortable with a technical section? Get off and walk. I used to think that the point of mountain biking was to identify the rockiest, steepest, most dangerous descents and blast down them at warp speed. My riding companions had years more experience than I did, and I struggled to keep up with them on trails way beyond my skill level. I worried that by walking, I would annoy everyone who had to wait even longer for me to catch up. So I took stupid risks for the sake of… saving a few extra minutes. Every ride, I’d come home with a fresh purple welt or a bloody scrape—or worse. I wish I’d simply listened to my common sense. What takes longer? A two-minute walk, or the hour my companions will spend carting my injured body to the hospital? And why worry so much about them? It’s me who has to deal with the physical pain—not just the impact and risk of permanent damage, but potential weeks of recovery and expensive medical bills. My advice to you: it’s not worth it. If that rocky switchback scares the hell out of you, walk it. As you’re walking, make a mental note of the terrain. Find a smaller-scale version of it and practice that until you feel comfortable. Then crank it up a notch. This is a much smarter, more efficient, and safer way to learn. Riding will be more fun than painful, and that’s the reason you’re out there!

2. Loosen up. During a mountain bike clinic in Harrisonburg, Virginia, I heard some of the best advice I’ve ever received: relax. Stiff arms, a death grip on the handlebars, scrunched shoulders—these tense positions use up more energy than you realize. Instead, focus on engaging the muscles in your core: your abdominals, back, pelvis, and hips. Let your core, not your extremities, “guide” your effort. Keep your shoulders relaxed, your arms bent at the elbow, and your hands firm but loose on the brakes. You’ll save energy and improve efficiency, allowing you to enjoy a longer, more relaxed ride. Try it!

3. Learn some basic repair skills. If your bike breaks, it can be a long walk home. There’s not much you can do about a crack in your frame, but there are some common breakdowns that every rider should know how to handle:

Flat tire. Always carry a hand pump, extra tube, tire levers, and patch kit with you on your rides. Learn to use them BEFORE you need them. This video does a great job of walking you through it. Tip: When you buy a new tube, you’ll see a little silver washer that screws down to the base of the valve stem. Save it! This tiny part keeps your valve secure when you are ready to attach your pump, making it much easier to insert air. You’ll especially appreciate it during inclement weather or if you’re in a hurry.

Broken chain. New riders often break chains due to clumsy shifting—putting too much pressure on the chain at the wrong time. If it happens to you, you’ll need a chain tool to first remove any damaged links and then put your chain back together.

Chain repair can be tedious and frustrating. One thing that will make your life easier is a Powerlink. Also called a “split link,” a Powerlink is a master link that makes it easy to split and rejoin a chain without any tools. They are included in chains made by SRAM, or you can buy them separately at your local bike shop for about $5. You’ll still need a chain tool to remove a broken link, but the Powerlink will make rejoining the chain easier, without shortening the overall chain length. I carry an extra one with my patch kit. Powerlinks are also great if you want to remove your chain to clean it.

Sign up for a basic maintenance course. More and more bike shops are offering these on evenings and weekends. It’s also a great idea to buy a reference manual like Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance or Mountain Bike Maintenance: The Illustrated Manual. These books include easy, step-by-step instructions with tons of color photos. For a fantastic bike-repair web site, visit: www.ParkTool.com.

4. “Look where you want to go, and the bike will follow!” I was learning to ride a motorcycle–not a mountain bike–when I first heard this advice. My instructor shouted it into a megaphone as we rode in circles around an empty parking lot. The goal was to steer perfect figure-eights, but my loops were wobbly, jerky, and slow. “Stop looking at your front wheel—look ahead!” he shouted. I lifted my gaze from my handlebars to a spot 15 feet ahead on the pavement. Sure enough, my turns got smoother and faster. Wherever I turned my head, the bike followed. Lo and behold, it works for mountain biking! By focusing 10-15 feet on the trail, even in technical sections, I’m prepared for what’s coming. I choose cleaner lines. I don’t waste as much energy navigating every little rock and root because I know my bike can handle it—allowing me to save my concentration for the really technical parts. This involves trusting the bike, which takes some getting used to, but the result is a smoother, faster, more enjoyable ride. Try it, you’ll be amazed at how quickly you improve!

5. “Drink water BEFORE your ride, not just during and after,” Gary advised. Gary takes hydration very seriously. He leads bike tours in the Marina Alta Mountains of eastern Spain, one of the driest, most technical trail systems in Europe. Summer temperatures can reach close to 100 degrees Fahrenheit—and there is very little shade. I joined him last June for one of his “easier” rides: a 27-mile loop dotted with steep pitches, rocky switchbacks, and rolling, fast descents. “You’ve got to start hydrated out here, or else,” he said. As promised, the sun was relentless during our three-hour trip. Sweat poured out of every pore on the first steep climb. I drank two 16-oz. bottles of water and didn’t once get the urge to pee, a sign that my body needed to absorb more fluid than I could give it. Then came a slight pounding headache…and the ride ended. Suppose we’d continued another hour? Muscle cramps, fatigue, nausea, dizziness—and perhaps, a trip to the hospital. The experience put hydration in perspective, and even though I live in a milder climate, I make it a point to start drinking an hour or two before every ride in addition to during and after.

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In most climbing gyms there are some bouldering areas, but the predominant climbing style in a gym is top-roping, where the rope is tied to the climber, strung through an anchor at the top of the wall, and attached to a belayer (either a climbing buddy or a gym employee) at the other end.

Once you’re tied in, resist the urge to jump on it and climb away. Although it seems like you can just power your way to the top, climbing at it’s best is a thinking man’s sport. As you come to the wall, look it up and down. Try to map your course of action in your head. Note the areas that you think will be easier, the ones that will be more difficult, and any places that you can take a rest if you need to.

The visual overview might seem superfluous, but your vision is severely limited when your face is inches away form the wall, and it helps to have a basic idea of its layout fresh in your mind. My friends and I actually review climbing videos from our previous trips to harder areas so that we can plan out our future attempts.

When you get on the wall, here are a few things to remember:

1. Hug the wall. You want to keep your hips (aka center of gravity) close to the wall. If you stick your butt out away from the wall, it’ll put you off with it, and you’ll look like a rookie. No one wants that.

2. Be aware of your center of gravity. Try not to lean way out to one side or another. Your ideal position is to have your core directly over your legs. This helps at keeping fatigue at bay and it makes things a lot simpler when you want to move. There are exceptions, but in general, you’ll have a much easier time this way.

3. Use your legs! I’ve said this before, but I can’t stress it enough. Your arms are for balance and shifting your weight. Your legs hold your weight. Your feet will be what get you to the top, not your hands. When you plan your next move, make sure you know where your feet are going to end up. Trust me, you’ll thank me later.

These basic tips should have you looking like you know what you’re doing, and as you get more familiar with the movement and your strength increases with time, you’ll find yourself on more and more challenging areas. Soon you’ll feel ready for some real rock.

To find a climbing gym in your area, check out http://www.indoorclimbing.com

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When I started to expand my mountain biking into the unforgiving desert expanses of places like Moab and Fruita, however, I realized it was time to change my negligent ways.  The last thing I need is to get a flat tire, broken chain or other crippling malfunction deep in desert terrain, particularly as the summer months rolled in.  I focused on purchasing tools and parts that were essential, compact and lightweight. 

For once, I was prepared.  Therefore, when I had a flat front tire as I pulled my bike out of the trunk at the Kokopelli trailhead, I thought—BOOM, I’m ready.  I popped in a spare tube, got my tiny little CO2 pump out and was ready to ride.  No I wasn’t.  Turns out, I wasn’t particularly keen at working my new pump.  The whole cartridge of CO2 shot all over my hand instead of into the tube.  No problem, spare cartridge.  I got a little more determined and focused and tried my second (and last) cartridge.  Frozen hand. 

Unfortunately, I had not brought a manual pump as back up.  My so-called preparedness was leaving me high and dry.   

Long story short, I found a bike shop, pumped up my tire and was on my way.  I did lose about an hour of valuable ride time, however. This experience got me thinking about the importance of preparing appropriately and really thinking through one’s supplies.  This incident could have very well occurred twenty miles into the desert and a simple flat tire could have become a dangerous affair. 

When I purchased my tools I’d focused on things that were light, small and could provide a pain-free, speedy fix.  The CO2 pump fit the bill perfectly being tiny and much quicker than a manual pump.  Unfortunately, it proved too exhaustive and even if I’d known how to use it properly I could still foresee running out of CO2 on a longer ride.  A manual pump will be on my next trip.  At least then, I’m guaranteed to have a pump that will fill my tire, even if it wears my arm off.   

A spare tube or 2 is great for a quick, painless fix, but a patch kit is also a must-have for longer rides, in case of multiple flats (only so many tubes are fitting in your bag).  Patches are tiny, lightweight and essential.  And don’t forget some tire levers for removing the tire.   

In addition to tires, some other fragile parts of the bike are vital to its most basic operation:

Chain—Without a chain your bike becomes a heavy, useless hunk during the most difficult parts of trail.  Bring a chain tool so you can repair a chain if it kinks or breaks.   

Wheels—Sure, tires are important, but so are the big discs they’re spinning on.  Although, you won’t be packing spare wheels, a spoke wrench is essential toward providing a quick true.  Spare spokes might be another item to consider.  

Brakes—Stopping is a nice little luxury.  Although you’re not likely to lose all function in both sets of breaks, it’s not a bad idea to familiarize yourself with how to adjust/service the specific brakes on your bike to keep you stopping smoothly on those tear-ripping downhills.   

Know-How—If you know all about bike maintenance, great—you’re set.  If you’ve been avoiding it at all costs like me, however, be sure to learn how to use your tools before you need them.  A pocket bike maintenance guide would also be a helpful item to pack.  All the tools in the world aren’t very valuable if you don’t know what the hell you’re doing.  

Pals— Obviously you can’t plan for every possible contingency—not too much you’ll be doing if your bike frame were to crack in two.  Therefore, the most important thing you can bring is a friend or two.  In a real pinch, where your bike is rendered immobile, your friend could bike out, get help or extra water and supplies, bring a 4WD to drag you and your bike out or, at the very least, keep you company as you hike.  Two sets of tools, hands and minds are also good commodities in case of a problem.   

Misc.—Multi-use items such as a multi-tool, Swiss army knife, duct tape and adjustable wrench can prove invaluable for all those little breaks you’d never have thought of.  These are all relatively compact and easy to store. And it doesn’t hurt to be over prepared.   

Although mountain biking is a lot of fun and bike maintenance/preparedness is none at all, it pays to be ready for a breakdown and could potentially save your life.  If you’re going deep into the wilderness, you should always carry the basic supplies needed to mend your bike and keep it riding out to the trailhead.  It also pays to give thoughtful attention to what you need and what you are purchasing to ensure that it is the most reliable option out there.  Don’t raid the multi-tool rack at your local shop and think you’re ready for anything.  Bottom line—be smart and ready and then you can truly enjoy the sport of mountain biking.  Take it from an impatient bonehead that just wants to ride.   

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Poison oak is most often found in the western and southeastern United States. The western version, or Toxicodendron diversilobum, is found only on the Pacific Coast, ranging from southern Canada to Baja California, under 4000 feet elevation, and grows as a shrub or a vine. However, in the east, Toxicodendron pubescens or Rhus toxicarium, grows mostly in sandy soils in eastern parts of the United States (a personal favorite from my childhood). With lobed leaflets in threes, this crafty little plant closely resembles young oak seedlings and is often mistaken as such by those tramping through the woods. The undersides of its leaves are lighter green than the surface and are covered with fine hair. It produces white berries, also sometimes hairy. The source of irritation for this plant is also urushiol.

Poison sumac, or Toxicodendron vernix, grows exclusively in very wet or flooded soils, usually in swamps and peat bogs, in the eastern United States and Canada. In the US, it grows as far west as southern Idaho. It is considered by botanists to be the most toxic plant species in the United States, based on its ability to cause urushiol-induced contact dermatitis. This plant grows as a small tree or shrub, with compound leaves and leaflets. The stems from which the leaflets grow are always red and the plant produces small white or grey berries, differentiating it from other sumacs which produce red berries.

Another plant that causes an allergic reaction in some (me included) is the Cow Itch vine, or Campsis radicans. Sometimes called Trumpet Creeper, this vine has bright green compound leaves and produces an attractive orange, trumpet shaped flower that hummingbirds love. The alternate name of cow itch, tweaks one’s imagination and suggests a sordid past, does it not? Although often used as an ornamental along fences and on arbors, this plant is also a weed and can be considered invasive. According to research, the allergic reaction handling this plant causes is nothing compared to poison ivy, but I, for one, am extremely sensitive to this plant and leave it be if I encounter it.

The terrible three are poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac, but keep a close eye out for cow itch, also. Experts estimate that three out of four people are sensitive to at least some of the plants mentioned. Blocking compounds such as Ivy Block will work with poison oak and sumac as well as with poison ivy and cow itch. Herbal remedies abound and I’ve tried them all, but Ivy Dry works the best for me, drying up the blisters in a few days.

For help with identification of these culprits, check out http://poisonivy.aesir.com/view/pictures.html

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By Jake Kulju

Canoe—check. Lifejacket—check. Paddles—what?
Paddles are an essential part of canoeing, and not just having them either. It’s important to have the right size and style for the type of water and canoe that you’ll be paddling in.

A basic canoe paddle has a blade attached to a shaft with a grip on one end. But that’s where the similarities end. There are as many different types of canoe paddles as there are people. The type of activity you pursue largely determines the type of paddle you will want to use.

General Recreation
• T-grip or pear grip and a mid-sized or smaller blade
• Fiberglass or aluminum shaft with stout plastic blade, or durable wooden paddle
• Mid-weight or light-weight for ease of use

Canoe Trip
• Durability
• Light-weight
• T-grip or pear grip with a smaller beavertail or tulip-shaped blade
• Flexible blade to ease the jolt of continuous strokes
• Fiberglass, plastic or wood with a 12-degree bent shaft

Whitewater Canoeing
• T-grip for better control of paddle
• Broad rectangular blade or tulip blade
• Stiff shaft with minimal flexibility
• Fiberglass or laminated wood blade tip for strength

A close second importance is having a paddle that is the appropriate length. Finding a paddle that fits increases your efficiency and stroke power. Generally speaking, the most efficient shaft length is the distance from your mouth to the water when you are in paddling position. If you are racing, sitting low in a canoe and using a significantly bent shaft you may want a shorter length. A good starting point is a 56-inch paddle. Start from there and determine if you need something longer or shorter.

The final considerations, though no less important, are blade and shaft shape. As a general rule, wider, shorter paddle blades function better in fast moving water and longer, narrower blades are better for long distances and canoe trips.
Oval shafts tend to fit the hand more naturally than round shafts, though this is entirely a matter of preference. The important thing to look for in a shaft is diameter. Too small and your hands will cramp up. Too large and your hand will tire quickly from gripping.

Like most lessons learned, it may take you awhile to figure out which paddle style is best for you. Just follow these guidelines along with a dose of patience and trial and error.

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I love hiking and biking on trails. And, I love photographing them. There is something about a trail that inspires me. Trails give direction and bring travelers to beautiful vistas and waterfalls. From a distance, I see a trail that meanders over a hill and I want to find the trail head and follow to where it leads.

These photos tell a story of a good day spent in the woods following a trail that could take me in so many different directions.

In Grand County Colorado there is an organization called the Headwater Trails Alliance. This organization is a nonprofit advocacy organization for trails in Grand County, Colorado. It is named for the streams that become the headwaters of the Colorado River. The primary goal for this organization is to provide a trail system that links the towns in Grand County. The partnership includes municipal and county governmental units, and community volunteers. One of the most popular multi-use trails in Grand County is the Fraser to Granby trail.

The final three miles are in the process of being completed and hopefully by the end of the summer it will.

Click on this link to view organization who are putting on events for National Trails Day 2008.
Trail work is a great way to meet new people who share a love of being outdoors. Most counties have organizations such as the Headwaters Trails Alliance. Call your local US Forest Service Ranger Station for more information on these very important community organizations that always need volunteers.
See you out on the trails.

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I drove to the Sacramento River Trail feeling fresh, having recovered from my sprint triathlon the previous weekend, and I was ready to get back to my old running schedule. I did three miles the day before and felt great, so I thought I’d bust out an easy ten. Five and a half miles later, I slowed to a crawl, and then to a very frustrated walk.

I couldn’t believe it! I was dying before I even hit the five-mile mark! My legs felt like lead, my mouth was bone dry, and I was ready to heave all over the trail. Then, as it usually does, the obvious smacked me on the head. It was freaking 95 degrees outside and I hadn’t had anything to drink before I ran! Lovely. Chagrined by my lack of judgment, I managed an achingly slow half-mile shuffle to the Pathfinder (and yes, I did see the irony of suffering from dehydration while running along side the Sacramento River).
Luckily for me, the price to pay for my negligence was a bad workout. If I had decided to do the secluded a.k.a. no-help-if-I-passed-out 9.5-mile loop I would have been hosed.

Feel free to learn from my mistakes. Since things tend to heat up a tad in the summer, keep these tips in mind:

1. Try running in the early morning or late evening, when it’s cooler. Duh. But if you can’t:

2. Wear as little clothing as you decently can, with emphasis on “decently”. You know who you are.

3. I usually drink every 30 minutes or so, but when it heats up it’s a good idea to drink every 15-20 minutes. There are a lot of portable hydration systems that make drinking on the run a lot easier, so it might be a good idea to look into.

4. Try chugging a few cups of water about 30 minutes before you run, just to get a good amount of water in your system.

Luckily, your body knows how to keep itself running in hot weather if we give it a chance to adjust. When it gets wicked hot, blood moves towards the skin to cool the body, forcing your circulatory system to work harder to get enough blood going to your muscles. After a while your body learns to distribute blood more efficiently to both skin and muscles. It takes about 10 days for your body to adjust to cooling your body more efficiently, so take it easy for a bit until you start to get used to it.

So don’t give up if you’re hating life as the weather changes, just take some precautions and take it easy for a bit.

And if you see me lying face down on the Sac River Trail, just roll me into the water. I’ll be fine.

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Whether you are a downhill enthusiast or spectator, this new breed of mountain biking is addictive. Visit the website to see a video of this new sport requiring a lot of adrenaline.

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